return to the Pentlands

 

17-05-24

The start of a few days of high pressure and fairly decent weather. We had a couple of projects in mind but were unsure which to target first. George had reported a lack of damselflies and dragonflies at Saltoun the day before and so that confirmed our first day out on Friday should be a hike in the Pentlands and to postpone the Saltoun cycle.

We used to run here every weekend and it is easy to forget the joys of the hills. Although there is some wildlife, you often don't come across it on the paths across the hills but more where there are trees and shelter or next to burns. We hoped to cover both aspects by having a flexible plan. In fact we changed that right from word go as our intended bus - the 44 - no longer ran the same route Mary had figured out so we ended up catching a 16, I think, past Oxgangs to drop us off a short walk in by Swanston. Kick off (walking) 10am. Not taking the car meant having the freedom to exit the hills where convenient rather than be obliged to perform a circuit.

the mist started to lift almost as soon as we got started

We took a direct line up through Swanston past the thatched cottages to the top of Allermuir. From there we headed along the North ridge. Capelaw Hill, Harbour Hill, Bell's Hill, Black Hill, Bavelaw and Red Moss. I had various ideas of what I hoped to see, but as usual saw lots of other stuff and hardly any of my shopping list. It was such a great day I didn't feel the absence of the things on my wish list at all. I carried the DJI Pocket for scenery and selfies, and the G9 for the birds and beasties and occasional long shot.

As the sun broke through our spirits lifted and we pretty much stayed high all day. It was a very pleasant day for renewing our acquaintance with these hills and even had there been no wildlife it would still have been a grerat day out walking. However there was plenty wildlife and the skylarks cheeping and peeping was a constant all day.

skylark

Capelaw 'summit'

First surprise of the day was during the descent off Capelaw, heading towards Harbour Hill, we came across green hairstreak butterflies (possibly just one) in the blaeberries. I knew they were in several unconnected areas across the hills but hadn't heard of them being here which is comparitively exposed to the cold and wind. (They are tiny.) 

Also note the new bag in the photo above (obvs taken by Mary). I had gone to Tiso's the day before and bought this Osprey 22 litre job. The Alpkit one I initially got to carry the new camera bumps against the small of my back and possibly exacerbates my sciatica issues on a long day out. I tried this one on in the shop and deliberately got a pack that can be adjusted to sit quite high, to avoid the lower back problem area. The Osprey bag was twice the price of the Alpkit one but you get what you pay for. It is much more comfortable and the pockets, layout and build quality are better quality than the Alpkit pack (which is perfectly functional but not in the same league.) And the frame of the Osprey bag that sits against your back is also better design and aids comfort on a long day carrying heavy stuff. Highly recommended! I took my camera pack to the shop to make sure it fitted in the pack, and still left room for a waterproof, sandwiches etc. I have now worn it on several long days out and can confirm it is well worth the three figure price.

green hairstreak

Harbour Hill

red grouse

Similarly coming off Harbour Hill we were entertained by a couple of red grouse who waited till we were nearly upon them before clattering out the heather, then landing not far away. I walked over, near enough to get photos, before they took off again. There were also a pair of stonechats, favourite birds, who always oblige by sitting up on high perches rather than disappearing into the undergrowth.

female stonechat

views to Threipmuir

male wheatear

A wheatear, another favourite, sat on the fence for us to photograph. When considering the things I hoped to see in the Pentlands I had completely forgotten wheatears. Several pairs appeared along the way and were an unexpected delight. We know them from the top of Crow Hill in town, and along the East Lothain coast (and Berwickshire coastal paths.)

The wheatear flew over to the fence just beyond where Mary is standing near the bottom (LHS) of Harbour Hill, heading to Bell's. It was as if it was leading us to the small coterie of green hairstreaks in the blaeberries there. (Another surprise colony.) Mary became absorbed there trying to photo the minscule green beauties while I followed the wheatear back up the boundary wall of Harbour Hill. It kept an eye on me all the time and allowed me just inside the acceptable zoom limits of my camera. I was probably doing all sorts of lying on the grass wriggling, mopping up all the ticks in the area. I got really quite close at times but the bird was always one step ahead. 

looking back up Harbour Hill from the next climb.
I thought these senior walkers looked like M and I in the future

photo Mary, Black Hill in the background
Buchanan takes the knee for the next wheatear on the fence

Again outsmarted by a pair of wheatears
but did manage the female this time (above)

On the descent over the brow of Bell's Hill, Mary said my name and lifted her camera. I saw where she was pointing it and managed to get this snap of three hares leaving the area pronto. I was impressed the camera quickly focussed and caught this decent image, I could only remember them running off and the feeling there was no way I'd get a sharp photo.

They went over rough ground without paths so Mary hung about while I stumbled through the heather to see if I could re-engage with them. Not a chance. They hopped and gambolled over the heather and were a long way away before I could get them in the frame. I did get a photo of one taking a backward glace before it disappeared. I had the feeling they were quite young as I don't think adults hang out together in threes.

the last of the St Mark's flies clustering round small trees

nicely brushed fleece!

plenty lambs about

Mary going up Black Hill

One of the things I really wanted to get photos of, was lizards. You don't see them often in the Pentlands (like once every 5 years) but I reckoned now was a good time (season and weather wise) and there might be a chance. The best spot (where I'd seen them before) was possibly along the small burn that runs between Bell's and Black Hill. Mary stood about while I hopped up and down the stream looking for reptiles out sunbathing. Not a flipping sausage. Not unsurprising given their scarcity and there is no way of getting them to appear just by wishing for them. Happily there were plenty of other distractions. 

raven overhead (I think)

larking about

The tracks up Black Hill had changed since we were last there recce-ing routes for the skyline many years ago. The farmer cuts and burns lines through the heather and there was a line of shooting hides built since we were last on the hill. I have a slightly better sense of direction than Mary although she would disagree heartily. Accordingly, she went right and I left, saying I'd see her at the top. I saw her pointing the camera at this skylark which landed near. I also thought I may have seen a female emperor moth (grey and furry) but it was flying too fast to follow. That was another specimen on my wish list, and the only time I got close all day, if that was even what it was.

all aboard the skylark

dark tussock moth caterpillar

looking out over the new plantation of trees
I was surprised to see they all appear to be conifers rather than mixed native

Again Mary and I both had different ideas about the route to take off Black Hill. The top was delightfully dry and only a bit spongy - if you get it wrong in Winter it can be a waist-deep sodden bog. We managed to keep feet dry but were both looking for a place to stop for lunch. That was already well overdue but we couldn't find a spot out the wind to sit for sandwiches and so kept moving. That might have been why there was an element of crankiness creeping in. Mary was determined to have us travel more over to the right whereas I knew the route went down past the puddle swamp to where the bird cage trap used to sit. I could post a photo of Mary with a face like stink wading through the knee deep heather she insisted we clamber through, as revenge, but that would be churlish. I think she would still argue she took us the right way. I knew exactly where we were having run that hill so many times in the Skyline and on recces! Smiley winky face emoji. 

meadow pipit

We eventually stopped at Green Cleugh and had our sandwiches. As a wee treat I got out the Emperor moth lures. Sure enough after a few minutes a handful of these spectacular moths appeared. It was interesting to note they were generally a bit more worn than the ones I had photoed at Bonaly 6 days prior. Some were very worn. I didn't capture them as before and put away the lure before too many appeared. We were watched with interest by a pair of stonechats, who sat nearby. The male actually chased an emperor when it flew close to his perch and I though we were going to be an accessory to a murderous crime!

dunnock with beakful of insects

bogbean

I could hear peeping and the stone-clacking calls that gives stonechats their name. I saw the male over near a fence and wall and waded across the tussocky ground to get closer. To my joy I saw it was a whole family with mum and dad and two young fledgelings. While they were a bit less than pleased about my presence they also didn't fly off. I kept fairly still and moved slowly trying to get into a position to get a better line of sight. I got a few decent photos although was disappointed to miss the all-four-in-same-shot shot that was there and gone a second later.

mum

fledgeling

dad and fledgeling

mum

dad

After a short while I called to Mary as I could tell she hadn't left the path to come over. No answer. I looked over and she was nowhere to be seen. Oh oh! I better catch up, I'll be in trouble! It took quite a bit of running to turn the next couple of corners and resume company. Any temporary disgruntlement was diffused immediately when we came across yet another troop of green hairstreaks to the right of the path with accompanying orange tips, common heath moths and green veined whites. 

a distant Mary!

common heath moth

GVWs

orange tip

Just before we went into the trees to descend at Bavelaw we heard a woodpecker. Mary was unreasonably optimistic about finding it, I thought not a chance in hell as there are too many trees too well foliaged and you can't run through the landowner's garden. However we were looking skyward along the first part of the avenue and I caught a glimpse of the GSW through the branches. With quick manouvering and the camera's bird detection assisting I got lucky. And when it was cropped quite a bit this looks like a proper photo of one just above head height not 50' away. Hurray! Despite Mary's optimism she didn't even see the bird. 

male great spotted woodpecker

As we walked down Beech Avenue two things happened simultaneously. A tiny yellow-green parachute floated down from the trees and a guy walked up the field carrying a lamb with child alongside. I think it was unlikely he was rustling lambs and most likely was the farmer. But only because, well, who rustles lambs? But if you're going to, best do it with total confidence and having a child along looks less dodgy. I bet the chops were tasty. And very fresh! As you can see I bodged the photo but hey the GSW was nice and sharp, and you can't win 'em all.

I was distracted because the tiny fluro parachute was the open carapace of a silver-green leaf weevil. Smaller than a ladybird but like a green metallic version of one, this was half falling, half flying out of nowhere. I put out a hand and it landed, folded its wings away and said hello. Okay it was not using out-loud language but it didn't seem unhappy to explore this new planet and got as far as my wrist before the jungle of arm hairs slowed it in its tracks. I can't take photos with the 100~400 lens of anything as close as my hand so had to ask Mary to do the business. It came across more like a demand than a request which Mary noted, but she also made an effort to do a decent job of it. Her FZ330 has a macro feature that if you hold it really close to a beetle fully zoomed out it will focus at a remarkably short distance and produce sharper shots than if you zoom in from a great distance away. It is not 100% reliable though, but Mary did an excellent job. 

After she assured me she might have a decent record shot I put the weevil down on the tarmac and took a few shots with a camera and lens roughly ten times the price of the one Mary had just used. And yet Mary's pic is the winner by a mile. Well done Mary and the FZ330. What a team!

the best I could do (without changing to the macro lens)

Mary wins by a country mile!

A few days later we would meet these weevils again. I did feel there was some unfinished business and I do like a weevil, they often come across as neat and self contained. And these metallic ones are really pretty in the sunlight. Watch this space.

green veined white

marsh marigold

I was gratified to notice this decent sized longhorn beetle on a dead tree stump. The stump was quite big and still in place vertically, but always worth scanning for any movement. This is a Rhagium bifasciatum, a two-banded longhorn beetle. He was so well matched to the tree colours I had to move round to get a shot of him against the sky. 

I had been looking forward to Red Moss and warned Mary we may have to spend some time there. It is a great place and the walkway gives easy access. I had thought it likely the only place we would find green hairstreaks. However wrong on all counts. We couldn't find any! I had heard a few years ago people say GHs were at Red Moss but had been suspicious of this. Then last year I think I found them on the low shrubby trees next to the boardwalk. No sign of blaeberries or gorse. Weird! 

Our GH cup kinda overflowed having seen them in 3 places earlier so we didn't hang about for a thorough search. (Bob later confirmed he didn't find any there either.) And there were no damselflies at the wee pond. So while it was pretty and the bog cotton was wafting in the breeze, it was NOT the distraction I thought it would be. Also we were both ready to catch a bus home having been out for 6hrs of hills. We managed the last mile or 2 fairly briskly to the bus terminal on the outskirts of Balerno.

last photo of the day although I think you can tell I am 

a bit distracted by the arrival and imminent departure of the bus

a fantastic day out, reminding us of the value of the Pentlands

On the bus ride back into the town centre Mary noticed and questioned the wisdom of the logo for the Haymarket Hostel? A bunkbed going up in flames? Wow! Dark!

10.8miles,  6.5hrs
I have a feeling we will be back soon.