Tenerife Holiday pt 2

While probably the highlight of the holiday, the trip to Punta del Hidalgo took its toll on Mary. She didn't feel her dinner that night settled properly, and sure enough it made a reappearance later on. She didn't stop being sick until she was completely empty and even then.... it was not a happy time. Possibly too much sun and maybe bugs she had been harbouring. Next day she stayed in bed recovering while I went out to run. I thought I'd revisit the route along the coast to the West (Rambla de Castro) we'd been discouraged from earlier in the week. Also the words used to describe that route "an area that is being taken care of beautifully in terms of vegetation" sounded like a lopsided translation from Spanish which I interpreted as "there will be butterflies."

the local senior volleyball gang

were doing a better job than their figures might suggest

eco concerns sponsored by one of the larger animal parks

I had to run through town and out the other side. When Mary and I had got to the blocked off trail and read the Spanish sign saying route closed due to landslip, Mary reckoned it was just the same as the Water of Leith at the Dean Village where the route is officially closed, but really everyone and their dog just goes round the side of the barriers. We hadn't forged ahead then, because there were other things to explore. And we didn't want to die falling off a crumbling path into the sea on the first day here.

I thought I would run inland of the initial section of coastal path and join it later on at the beautiful vegetation part. So I followed the large busy road inland, then parallel to the coast. It climbed very steeply instantly and I had various breathers along the way. It ran through the outskirts of town into what felt like the next community along the coast. 

After another mile or so I was passing a fence with a slightly unofficial entrance beckoning. It looked like a place dog-walkers would use and possibly led to the Rambla below, as long as there were no high drops. There were terraced fields between ruined walls, the lot looking like it might have been farmed fields 20 or 30 years ago, now going to seed and un-maintained. What looked like nettles were sting-less plants (magic!) and as I walked through them I realised they were full of Painted Ladies, Small Coppers, Small Whites, wee brown moths and lizards. The final bits of winter depression melted away in my rib cage. Deep joy. I knew I had a few hours but should probably not spend all day here without checking back on Mary. But it was proper holiday kick off your shoes and enjoy the sunshine time! 

miles of smiles

I know the species aren't anything tropical or exotic but I possibly enjoyed those hours as much as any all holiday. I am prone to the winter blues. Mainly because the things I enjoy most in the year aren't available for about 6 months; ie taking photos of butterflies in the sunshine. And around December when the Scottish weather is lamentable and Spring seems to be an unbearable distance away, I just get low. And wonder why I live in a barren cold place. This trip to Tenerife was miraculous in turning that around. Really quickly my body and soul were basking in the daily sunshine. Gloomy Scottish thoughts were banished and replaced with wondering what would be round the next corner and what butterflies might be lurking where. Life was again very much worth living. The Painted Ladies and Small Coppers were like old friends and the light couldn't be better for photos. Hours passed like minutes. I was living life in the zone. After a bit, (quite a long bit!) I reluctantly dropped down to where the Rambla de Castro went along the cliffs. It was suitably amazing, but not actually as good for butterflies as the disused terraces I had been gifted by the fates.

Stacion de bombeo de la gordejuela

This was the most spectacular ruin I have ever seen. An old pump house which was used to bring water to the banana plantations, it is perched on the side of these huge cliffs and has weathered into this giant hulk of fantastic plaster and brickwork. Totes awesome! I hurried past as I wanted to get to the other end of the hike and back to see how Mary was. There were a few other tourists but it never felt busy. 

this is the back drop to the amazing coastal scenery -

hills and terraces climbing up to heaven!

This dragonfly was one of the larger I met. He was patrolling an area and never settled for a photo so I had to take his pic as he flew past parting my remaining hair. The size and presence of a small bird. Folk who know (thanks John W) say this is one of the Anax, one of the emperors, though which one is not absolutely clear. Big though!

Seeing another gent on all fours with a magnifying glass in the shrubs I enquired had he found anything good? When he spoke I could hear he was already anticipating my disinterest. "Mosses." I was so sure he was going to say something about insects I thought he maybe said Mothés. But alas it was mosses. I tried to not blurt out "fascinating" in a sarcastic manner, and didn't hang around for the full lecture tour.

There was an offshoot of the trail and a wooden platform and a couple of feral domestic fowl. This one was a bit shifty to start with but I knelt down to take an eye-level photo and I think it got the idea I might have a handout. It shot across directly and I held out my hand for strokes and cuddles. It pecked my watch then gave me a firm stare, and I realised it was reminding me of the time and perhaps I should be considering others instead of just my own agenda. (Mary later denied sending a familiar to check up on me.) You're probably right I muttered.

I couldn't see any bus stop near the cafe at the end of the trail. I reckoned I could run back in an hour, probably quicker than the wait for the bus, especially if I got the wrong one and it headed off into the hills. As a concession I did some speed work and hill intervals on the return. And only stopped for really outstanding visuals/butterflies/photos. 

Rambla de Castro is the left half of this run (on the coast)

our hotel is far right where it starts/stops.

Total dist. 12.45 miles

collared dove giving me the stink eye

Mary was spot on when she likened the path closure to the landslide closure of the WoL at the Dean Village back in Scotland. This was exactly like that. I noticed the barrier was pulled to one side at the far end so cautiously proceeded. I came across a large boulder which had fallen down onto the path and needed to be climbed over. It was lethal enough to have the council close the cliff top trail but the locals had decided to reopen it and you could see at the other end a duck-under-the-bush entrance that everyone was using; almost identical to the Dean Village set up.

just to the side of the barrier! (At Hotel Maritim end.)

This is for Sarah who is going there soon. Highly recommend if  you are nearby!

only essential photos on way back!

It took Mary the rest of the day to recover. She ate a little but still felt rough. Next day she was cautiously optimistic. We decided to limit things to nearby, rather than travel and find we needed to race back home again. I still had a couple of ornamental gardens on my list of places to go so we headed inland towards the Victorian Gardens. These were in La Orotava, a district that is almost like the old town of Puerto de la Cruz. A bit further from the beach, a bit older and dare I say it, a bit more dignified? Unfortunately we had to cross the motorway. (Autopista!) I had been google-earthing it and was fairly sure the white bits on the edges of the fly-overs were pavements. I realised I'd be for the fucking high jump from a less-than-her-usual-chipper-self Mary if I'd got it wrong, so fingers were defo crossed. I had the whole route in my Suunto in sat-nav mode but it was far from a breeze. Mainly due to the gradient being almost so steep you need crampons. Anyway the sun came up at exactly 9 again and it all started reasonably well.

On leaving the hotel Mary dipped her hand in the hotel pool to check temps. She said it was ok and we had planned to swim a fair bit over the week. And yet we found ourselves so busy with this and that, that this was the only time we went near the pool. I didn't even touch the water. Shame really.

First up the Jardin Botanico, just two streets away from our hotel. I'd been already, but well worth another visit. Lots of strange and wonderful plants and trees. Just when you think you know all the fruits of the world you come across a tree off Star Trek or Dr Who.

A couple of circuits of the gardens then we headed South, uphill towards the Autopista and La Orotava. It is a town founded in the 16th century and has buildings and gardens of interest. I had seen a couple of places on the map and realised it might be a bit of a hike to get there (3 miles+). Mary was a bit cautious as we approached the motorway but happily the fly-over did have pavements and pedestrian access, as seen on google earth. 

saw this scarlet darter (crocothemis erythraea) in a cistern near the motorway

unusual garden ornament

As we climbed the steep streets towards the gardens we began to feel like a cafe stop might be in order. The quality of the surroundings improved as we got towards the town centre and there were all sorts of interesting looking buildings and shops. The fairly derelict small building above had a roof full of succulents. They seemed to have self seeded: it didn't appear to have been planted that way. It seemed to be an example of how readily things grew on a minimum of care and attention here. There can't have been much in the way of soil so presumably there are sufficient nutrients coming past in the humid air. Something of an enigma.

excellent street sign in calle viera

what a sport Mary is!

We found the Victoria Gardens but thought the cheap and cheerful cafe across the road might be a good idea before going in. It was, although still quite early in the day for a beer. The Suunto on sat-nav had brought us to the right place but initially we went into the large building to the side of the gardens thinking it was the entrance. I think the 2 may have been originally joined but the garden entrance was now separate and to the right hand side of the large building which might have been a fancy hotel and restaurant. Didn't really stick around long enough to find out, other than taking a photo of a large strange mural.

Here is the tourist guide to the gardens...

If you would like to discover some unique gardens in the Canary Islands, the Victoria Gardens are a must. They were designed in the 19th century by French artist Adolph Croquet with a very eclectic style.The tidiness and precision of the whole structure is astounding. The gardens are arranged in tiered terraces with fabulous fountains dotted here and there, and a huge variety of colourful flowers. The views over the old quarter of La Orotava from the top of the gardens are quite spectacular.

Mary found the layouts and flowers to be a bit like the Victorians. Too uptight and regimented. It was a pleasant enough space, (lovely views) (free entry) and very well maintained, but, as Mary felt, a bit unimaginative and all a bit straight-lines-and-no-romance. Within a few minutes I had noticed there were Geranium Bronze butterflies on several of the geranium flowers so I was somewhat distracted. In fact I didn't really notice much else. I had come across these tiny insects in Spain earlier in the year. They are so small they are hard to photograph well, but on the upside they are full of character and don't stray any distance. So even if they do fly off, they probably won't go far. But like small blues or green hairstreaks have the ability to turn sideways on and disappear entirely. 

geranium bronze

It took some time to get what I felt were a couple of decent shots. Then another couple just to be sure. I hadn't seen any of the Lycaenidae I had hoped for on this trip and was beginning to feel they maybe weren't out and about at this time of the year. Nick Morgan had mentioned African Grass Blues, Southern Brown Argus and Canary Blues. Never saw any. 😭 So I felt this might be one of the only chances to interview some geranium bronzes. (It was.) They were reasonably friendly but very small and continuously fidgety!

Mary was well bored by now, but very patient.

This grasshopper was keen to get into the blog and a much better 

model than any of the butterflies, holding still for ages!

There was a sign saying toilets, but no toilets. I was daring Mary just to go in a secluded corner or even in one of the many ornamental ponds. None of the fountains were on but there were quite a few visitors about the place. We held on till the next cafe stop.

Right next door was the Hijuela del Botanico. I think it said something about being a nuns' garden. There's some chat here. Again free, and a rather more pleasant and relaxing place for a saunter. Nice shade from tall trees and a smallish area to explore of just about one acre. Very much more a butterfly type of space as well. We had only seen the one species next door but here we were almost immediately met by a monarch who showed us around and, more excitingly, a volcania red admiral. Mary was much more buoyant and got her camera out. On the downside the toilets were locked. 

We had been round 7/8ths of the place and just about to leave when a monarch passed overhead and as we followed its path it took our gaze to a stand of flowers in bloom. There were maybe 6 or 10 monarchs feeding and lazily chasing each other around and over the flowers. It was very captivating and you didn't have to be a fan to enjoy the spectacle; several passers-by got their mobiles out to take photos. I took many bad photos in my haste and some shaky video. Mary, more canny, found a resting specimen on a leaf in better nick than the ones on the flowers, and was disappointed when I spotted her getting the best monarch photos of the day, and promptly moved in on her patch.

Feeling we had done plenty culture (3 botanicos) we headed off on the lookout for a cafe to sustain the walk back. We traipsed round a large square (was it the town hall?) which had a 1:1 scale nativity scene in it. The rest of the square was given over to other full sized figures of life in a biblical village with mannequins making baskets and selling stuff like a giant madame tussauds bringing the bible to life. It was both fabulous and laughable. You could see open mouthed tourists reaching for their cameras and scanning the square in disbelief. It wasn't quite awesome but someone had gone to a whole lot of trouble to put it together. I imagined how this would be treated if it was set up in Leith with just a small picket fence for security. First Friday night and all the life sized dummies would be reconfigured into poses of any and all types of intercourse.

more mirror mirth

Finally we found a cafe that looked neither too down- nor up-market. I asked for a cerveza and was interested to note the one they brought was 7.2%. I wondered if I was going to be stiffed for their most expensive beer (I hadn't specified which cerveza or pointed at anything.) But was pleasantly surprised that yet again it would have cost way more in a cafe or bar in Leith. It also nicely blurred the edges of the walk back to the hotel. I think Mary had a coffee and fizzy water. She survived the 7 miles there and back very well considering 24hrs previously she had been barking at both ends. 

3 botanicos, 7.4 miles walked