taking tiger mountain (by strategy)

 

Tenerife holiday pt2

First up a swim in the harbour. We had seen folk swimming here but it doesn't look that great - not compared to the far more welcoming Costa Martianez - an "aquatic zone with saltwater and freshwater pools, fountains and rentable sunloungers". Colin and Joan had gone there and found the main swimming pool closed for renovation and so had been going to the harbour to swim. Colin was particularly taken with the fish, swimming against the harbour walls and had taken snorkels along. It was a good heads up and I had looked out an old diving mask and snorkel along with waterproof camera. Having someone show us the ropes gave us the confidence to get into the murky looking harbour. The water was warmer than any in Scotland and although you got a moment of gasp getting in, a minute later you were swimming about without a worry. 

at the harbour
C&J had done a hill race the day before (Joan: age group winner!)

It was a bit murky for photos. Our waterproof camera is possibly past its prime and the light wasn't great on the side of the harbour we were swimming. I really enjoyed what we could see although I think Colin was disappointed as he had promised us Blue Planet scenarios! I could see a lot more than the camera has caught and hoped to return on a better day for photos. Also within a few minutes of getting in a giant black skate or ray swam (menacingly) below us gliding along the bottom of the harbour. I nearly swallowed my snorkel. Colin saw it too - he hadn't seen anything as large in the harbour (about the size of a small bar table) and both our reactions were similar and of the OMG nearly shat variety. I did not get a photo and it was past and away despite me trying to keep up for a few strokes.

The rest of the photos do not do the marine life any justice. Colin had said there were good visibility days and less so. I had planned to return but we were so busy with stuff, we only got back on one further occasion and it was maybe even worse as there was quite a bit of swell outside the harbour washing in. Nice place to swim though. Perhaps better than it looks.

nice shirt!

local baker/pizza shop for post-swim snacks

loads of these dark coloured crabs but they were v shy

2nd swim and the swell was considerable

Mary at the hotel pool
I didn't manage/bother

Last year we had a fabulous trip up Montana de Limon and wanted to do similar this trip. We caught the bus from the station across the road. We still had Titsa cards from previous trips and the machine in there tells you what credit remains and you can top it up if required. Apart from the buses being busier than previously it is a great service and takes you all around the island in a user-friendly manner. And cuts out the stress of driving on very fast autopistas or very steep switchback narrow roads into the hills. 

Sadly there had been forest fires since last year and many areas were blackened and burned. There did seem to be less wildlife (although there wasn't huge amounts previously) but there were new green shoots on many of the blackened pine trees which was heartening. 

It takes about 2.5 hrs to get above the treeline, after which you emerge out into a lunar landscape. The air is thinner from altitude and you feel a bit spaced out. 

packed lunch at 6900ft looking towards Teide

new green shoots

back down

like a giant zen garden

I had put the route into my Suunto. The gpx file was available through the Rother Guide online download. Although we had done it before I was glad of the info as there were plenty of junctions to go wrong at, and all the stuff in the pine forest is much of a muchness and not particularly easy to get right. I proved this on the descent. We passed a guy who was coming up the trails on a dirt bike and I have to admit to being distracted by the idea of a 30minute jaunt up the trails on a motorbike vs the 3hrs it had taken us to get to the top. However we were glad of the exercise and something to burn off the beers and wine (and chorizo and cheese) every night that were in danger of giving us both beer bellies.

I hadn't looked at the sat-nav for 5 minutes and when I did I saw we were off course. Maybe it was just one of those glitches and we'd get back on route shortly. Another 5 minutes and we were getting more off route. Dammit! Beginner's mistake. We turned around and climbed back up the half mile wrong turn to where we had seen the biker. Sure enough we had just followed the main sweep downward trail and not noticed a turn-off just to the right. I was really annoyed with myself for taking my eye off the ball as it resulted in an extra mile and we were both feeling the exertions of the day. Mary wasn't as bothered.

11.6miles, 6hrs incl. lunch and mistake

Eventually we started coming to signs saying 5k to La Caldera, the bus terminal where we would catch the bus. We knew the hourly times and one was due in about 30minutes with a fair bit still to go. There was no way we'd catch it at walking pace. The trails had been very rocky but were now smooth enough to run and pretty much downhill all the way. However after more than 5hrs, legs weren't feeling super keen about running. I did not crack the whip. (I was pretty sure the buses would be a bit late and not in any hurry. I think the previous year one turned up at a completely random time halfway between timetables. It was not worth a trip and fall.) Mary tested her running legs and found she had the momentum to crack on at a decent pace. Maybe we would make the next bus? 

I think Mary is signalling 1 mile to go 😁

After a tremendous effort we arrived a minute before the scheduled bus.

Much to my surprise the scheduled bus turned up precisely on time, loaded up the 5 or 6 passengers and headed off within a minute. It was not what I anticipated. We were delighted to have caught it and be on our way down to the long winding road back into town and home to get showered and scrubbed after a long day in the hills. Definitely earned our dinner and drinks!

dirty piggies

The next day I guessed Mary wouldn't be up for another big adventure. She had some things to sort out - shopping for a camera battery charger as she'd forgotten to pack hers, and doing some Feldenkrais in our room. I tentatively suggested I go do the Plain Tigers at Punta del Hidalgo while she did her own things, and we agreed this would be a good idea. Mary is keen about butterflies but not so keen that 90minutes bus travel to the other end of the island to watch me spend hours taking hundreds of photos fills her with joy. We had already unexpectedly seen a few plain tigers at Barranca de Ruiz and I think she was more than happy about that. Why go a long way on a bus to see more?

Well, I had a new camera I wanted to experiment with. And Colin and Joan had visited the area a couple of weeks back and reported it to be busier than ever with PTs not only at the dry riverbed where we usually see them but up the trail towards Chinamada as well; something unheard of! It made sense for Mary and I to part company, rather than drag her along to stand about for ages. And I'd have longer to linger. Win, win!

the scene that greets you getting off the bus
Chinamada is up that valley, on the trail on the shin of the left side

the special place is the small scrubby bit between
the green roof and the steps going up the hill

plain tiger!

I did miss Mary's company. Firstly, I nearly missed the bus swap. The bus pulled alongside La Laguna bus station rather than going in. My mind had drifted a bit (tired from yesterday no doubt,) and I dreamily noticed the large building next door was just like the station the bus usually pulls into. Exactly like that! I quickly woke up and jumped off the bus and wandered around till I found the place for the connecting bus and tried to be more alert.

When I got off at the far end of Punta del Hidalgo I forgot to bleep my Titsa card up against the exit machine which confirms your card in some way. I have no idea what happens in the way of punishments or fines for not bleeping your card on exiting, no one ever properly explains those things abroad and it remains an unresolved mystery*. When I realised 2 minutes later, I considered returning to where the bus was still standing at the terminal but could imagine that only causing more trouble with the driver and language barriers. I remembered telling a bus station employee in La Laguna (isn't that a pretty town name?) in semi-articulate Spanish that I didn't speak any English. 

*Just googled that. The purpose of the validating your card on exit is to stop people saying to the driver they are going 3 stops and then going 6. Or 23. If you don't validate / confirm your card on exiting the bus you could be charged for the maximum/whole journey. I suspect nothing happened to me because I would have paid to go the whole way from the station to the terminus.

All this was washing through my head while I wandered down the dusty track to the dry gully where I have seen Plain Tigers on all 4 occasions I have come to look for them. Although some years they are plentiful and fresh, others maybe just a few tired examples. Within moments I had seen one or 2 flitting about, one old, one new. Maybe about 6~8 specimens total. (Although tricky to tell as they come and go, and may be the same ones you've just seen.) Not the numbers or quality Colin and Joan had reported a fortnight ago but enough to have me crouched there taking pics for an hour or so. Just checked the gps output and I was there for 52 minutes before heading up the trail to Chinamada. (Mary's limit last year was 26mins on the ascent and the same on descent.) Such restraint! I had a quick chimp and saw I had caught one mid-flight, in focus and sharp. Okay, mission complete. I can go walk up the trail.

After getting what I felt might be good enough shots of them on their favourite lavender-like plants I tried to get some flying shots. I used the pre-burst mode as well as just point and shoot techniques and can't remember which was which. But there was plenty of light (sunny but hazy) and most of these seem to have been shot at 1/2000th of a second. They are quite a floaty slow-moving butterfly (by comparison to smaller butterflies or birds) so that was quick enough to freeze them in motion.

coming in to land!

we have touch down!

As I moved about the dry gully I saw a couple of young people checking out the beach. It is probably quite famous among the surf community as large breakers roll in here. They probably thought I was slightly touched coming all this way then not even going over to the shore to admire the waves. Each to their own! A couple of folk kindly stepped to one side when they saw me taking photos, or waited till I had finished lying in the dirt to go past. I think the good weather contributes to everyone being polite and friendly. I was delighted to be surrounded by large pretty butterflies flip-flopping  and gliding from flower to flower and was totally in the zone for that hour. 

when I saw this image while chimping I reckoned 'job done!'

Right near the start of the trail up the side of the ravine was a small campsite. Helping clear up some of the debris left behind were about 20 canaries. They were the exactly the same colour as the sandy ground but one or 2 were perched on low shrubs. I saw one and set the pre-burst to catch it as it left its perch. It took off, I pushed the button fully down and boom, the above image. 1/2500 of a sec and 800iso. I'm not sure who chose those settings, but I don't think it was me!

I felt unusually vulnerable carrying the new camera up the rough trail. It is not dangerous if you watch your feet and step carefully in places, but you do need to pay attention as there are some deadly drop offs and narrow bits. I put it away and got out the TZ100 (compact) brought along for scenery. However halfway up the trail I swapped it for the G9 and the short lens. I came across a group of about 7 or 8 plain tigers. Colin had mentioned they were on the trail up to Chinamada, although he also said it was a particularly hot sunny day and we wondered if that was the factor in their unusual appearance there. When I was there it was very warm bordering on hot (while climbing) but not surprisingly so.

viewpoint area - the TZ100 struggling to get
the whole contrasting panorama in  

So it was something of an unexpected delight to see first 2 or 3, then up to 7 tigers flying in close circles around a bush and about the trail in the middle of nowhere. Of course you had to watch your step and not blindly walk backwards while taking photos. I had neglected to shoot any video down at the start. Although it made sense to shoot with the short lens more than the long lens. I couldn't see the results properly other than in camera as my iPad doesn't like the format of video the camera shoots in and only gives you a second rate jumpy version of the film. I must have a look on my PC as it lets you appreciate them flying, in a way that stills just don't.

funnily a small copper was giving the plain tigers a chase about

five in one photo
(and prob a small copper in there chasing them off 'his' land)

I continued up the track feeling I should make an effort to get to Chinamada. The last couple of times here we turned around after the first viewpoint. It is quite a slog up a long narrow trail. Just as I was getting to a narrow section with long drop offs, a trio of large Spanish chaps approached. I hurried past the thinnest bit and then nodded at them as I edged past on the outside of the trail. 

Just before Chinanmada (a small hill top delight of a village) there is this pinnacle in the middle of the gorge. It is even more spectacular in real life and worth the effort to get up there. I'm not sure if there are refreshments available in the hamlet - I took my own. A full reservoir of water and a large sandwich. Eaten at the top viewpoint. The supermercado next to our hotel sold excellent bread - INTEGRAL! - I would always chant "integraaal" (wholemeal) in a low growling voice never really sure why, in appreciation of the brown unsliced flat loaves they sold. Half of one filled with chorizo, olives, cheese, tomato slices and salad was enough to get you through a long day. I also took about 25 bars from the UK. Deliciously Ella, Nakd bars, Trek flapjacks etc. And brought about 22 home. I'm writing this not to let you know how stupid I can be, but to let myself know next trip what is NOT required. We seemed to enjoy the local stuff (local bananas were top) more than our own imports.

Chinamada

view from viewpoint

There was a small sign saying Punta del Hidalgo at the top and an arrow pointing down the trail with 90mins written on it. Well there's a challenge. I think I had 3+ miles on my Suunto at the top of the hill but that would be wildly inaccurate given the butterfly hunting circles at the trail head. Anyway I set off determined to do better than 90mins. I would have taken about an hour if I hadn't stopped to photo and feed a Berthelot's Pipit. I had some seed in my pack as ever and it seemed to come closer as if asking for a treat. I had to stop and mess about. The light had gone a bit (the haze more substantial) and so there was little call to stop at any point for butterflies. I reckoned I saw a speckled wood but it might have been some sort of hawkmoth as it was fast and erratic. No pics, no settling. And I overtook the 3 outsize Spanish gents who were still descending.

back to base in 2mins over the hour

I didn't stop at the spot at the bottom of the trail either, feeling I'd not get anything to match the photos from earlier and if I pushed on I might catch the 3.50 bus. As I climbed the steep tarmac to the bus terminal I realised I wouldn't be arriving there much ahead of schedule and so I started running, bearing in mind the bus catch of yesterday. I overtook a couple of hikers who were plodding with big boots and trekking poles. I have a feeling they might have been thinking take it easy chap you're on holiday, it is very warm, there's no hurry! However I knew the timetable, and just in case the bus was leaving on time I legged it up the road. When I turned the last corner I could see the bus 30 yards ahead and as I ran the length of it the door closed and the engine started. I got to the door and shouted OLA! and the driver let me on although I didn't get a welcoming smile. I whipped out my Titsa card before flopping into a seat and sweating like a beast. The bus pulled away before the hiking couple came round the corner.

A half hour drive to La Laguna, a bit of a wait, then busy connection back to Puerto de la Cruz. I checked my card at the end of the journey and it had cost very little to do 25 miles in either direction. About 7 euros return to travel 50miles. A bargain! Like yesterday more tiring than it looks on paper, possibly because it was quite hot all day. I just checked the altitude gain and loss and my Suunto needs reset (presumably wildly confused from travelling on the aeroplane!) It reckoned my lowest point (would have been just a couple of meters above sea-level) was 7,700' and I went up to 10,160. Assuming the proportion is correct even if the calibration isn't, gives something like 2,460ft ascent and descent. A superb day out and one of my favourite haunts in majestic surroundings. And the new camera performed admirably! (Although I tweaked these photos on holiday on my iPad and have a feeling they might have been better yet if I tweaked them on my usual software on my PC at home. But can't be arsed doing them a second time. They are really very similar to how they came out the camera except maybe for some tighter crops.)

6.7 miles over 4hrs30m, 2460' up and same down

---------o---------

The next day as something of a recovery we went to the track for a session in the morning (before 9am!) and then to the Orchid Garden in the afternoon. Both were interesting. I had started the holiday by measuring a 5k time-trial, a private parkrun, round the dirt track and managed to get under 20mins; something I haven't been anywhere near in the UK for some time. I do seem to respond favourably to the warmth. As Coach Alan said batteries work better in the heat than the cold. I think my muscles tendons and bones all enjoy the warmer weather and loosen off. My brain certainly does. I had no specific targets with track workouts but almost accidentally did a series of 200s (with Colin and Joan) 400s, 800s, 1600s and then at the end of the holiday, another 5k to mark the improvement. Today was 800s and trying to do 2 laps in 3 minutes. My Suunto reckons the laps are slightly long and that I cover a mile a bit before 4 laps, but again it depends how many folk are at the track and how many times I have to overtake folk and run in the outside lane. Anyway 3.01, 2.59, 2.59, 2.57 which is about 6minute miling pace. I can't keep this up for 5k yet but enjoyed running hard and sweating as the sun rose. We were done by 9.45am.

another shot at smiling in front of the mustard wall

I put the short lens on for the Orchid Garden visit. C&J hadn't been terribly impressed by this as a venue. There is an entrance fee and you're lucky to see any wildlife other than a distant monarch or the carp in the pond. We like its eccentric charms (I collect their paper entrance tickets which have an old world charm and we have 3 sets as bookmarks) and if the cafe wasn't too busy, planned to have a beer or snack there. In the end we had Earl Grey Tea and a piece (2 slices) of lemon cake. (Which came with a shot glass of squirty cream to dip your cake into) a touch of genius, if a bit low rent for this establishment!

a sunbeam of tiny flies

tea and cake! delish!

some nice ironwork in the private house next door

lots of characterful tiles

Of course there are lots of orchids and they do seem well tended but they like shady cool areas and so are in quite dark shadowy displays. We are more taken by the cage of lovebirds and the dressed shop mannequin set up rather badly, representing Agatha Christie and her stay on Tenerife. You half expect to bump into Poirot or Miss Marple. Or see a pair of deceased feet poking out from the hibiscus.

There were lots of these lovely blue plumes around the carp pond. We saw a monarch briefly land on one and the contrast of orange and blue was very good. Mary got a quick photo, (good, but not the masterpiece it could be!) I did not! I was possibly changing lenses. Anyway it happened once so would almost certainly happen again if we waited long enough. Well no. I had my long lens on and we waited. There were a couple of monarchs doing circuits and then teasing us by flying over or round the blue plumes but not one landed for a second during the 15minutes we waited and waited in the broiling poolside heat. We eventually left fairly nonplussed, feeling we had been got the better of.

On the way out we remembered we had not seen Nelson the large 3 legged iguana that lounges around the pond; he had been tossed over the garden wall 19 years ago and stayed. Called Nelson because of that missing front leg. Anyway we enquired but sadly he has gone to that big orchid garden in the sky. Moment of respect and remembrance before heading back through town.

Nelson, from last visit.

looking forward to getting cancelled