Thursday, 20 November 2025

a touch of frost

 

12~15th November. The drop in temperature coincided with another trip North to visit Mary's mum in Aberdeenshire. Our accommodation was again the excellent (although unheated) Gemsbok Lodge, a large wooden cabin next door to K&A. We ate delicious meals and drank wine in Karen and Andy's lovely house before wandering across the gravel to marvel at the stars before cosying under the heavy hug of 3 duvets, while Alexa played ambient music and the stars crossed the dark blue night sky.

It was bracing. Although the temps dipped below freezing and left a decent frost on the car, it felt much colder, the high humidity seeping into bones and making going to bed a fully clothed experience – with socks and hats staying on overnight and 2 layers of “pyjamas.”

Best item I packed to take North were a couple of hot water bottles that Mary bought a while back but hadn't seen active service till now. I thought they might come in handy and were as welcome as a log fire at the end of the day. I looked out the cabin windows on the second night and felt I should be outside taking photos of the stars, planets and milky way but it was just too cold to fanny about in the dark with a head-torch, trying to find the astro settings on my camera.

As Mary sat in the car before leaving Edinburgh I ran back up the tenement stairs three times to retrieve stuff I remembered at the last moment. One of these trips was for a couple of tripods in case the sky was clear. The aurora borealis had been seen lately, and the lack of light pollution in Monymusk made for impressive skies. Unfortunately the cold weather was just too discouraging to spend 10minutes outside at 2am – would have involved putting on 3 layers and a puffer jacket and fumbling camera settings through double gloved fingers. Too much faff. Back into the snug bed with 3 duvets and a warm rubbery friend!


But first, a trip outdoors to fill the afternoon of Thurs 13th. The skies hadn't yet cleared and the low grey cloud sat close to the hilltops. Standard Nov weather. Undeterred and keen to offset the calorific damage of such good food and wine, we went for a wander. In the past we have run the trails over the 2 local hills – Pitfichie and Cairn William – in a loop that does 10 hilly miles. However Mary was not run-fit and so we parked the car just beyond Cairn William in a spot Mary had noticed when going out that road. Up a single track road to a small lumpy parking place for about 10 cars that gives access into the hills for mountainbikers, dogwalkers and hikers. We had cameras with us but it was quite a challenge to take an interesting photo in such deadly flat light. Also I spent most of the time complaining about the lack of any wildlife. A distant soaring buzzard was practically the only animal we saw. I tried to get excited about lichens and fungi but failed.



trees turning nice colours

After most of a mile we came across the Whitehill recumbent stone circle. A smallish circle of stones you'd likely ignore if there wasn't a sign. I had cannily taken goretex trainers in anticipation of shuffling through wet grass and my feet almost stayed dry. Mary cursed as the wetness seeped in. We had reckoned on doing about 2.5miles out then turning back. It took us to the point where we recognised the usual route; where after dropping off Cairn William the route heads South and in a circuit back to Monymusk via a mile or 2 of tarmac. We returned to the car finding it was just short of 5 miles total because of course we had wandered round the stone circle on the way out but not on the way back. You can get too much of a good thing.





lichens



troll hill




lots of this sort of thing

pine needles colouring the path


That night the sky was clear and we woke up to a proper frost. The forecast was good and sure enough the skies were blue. We had a chat with the Migster. She was not a happy bunny. She had hurt her ribs and was mostly confined to lying prone on her bed. She deeply regretted being 97 and forced to endure the iniquities of old age. Her advice was to hand in your dinner pale in your eighties as one's nineties were just full of misery. I have actually reviewed my outlook based on this. I had previously thought that being longer lived was optimal and the longer the better. However I am prepared to believe Mrs H when she says best check out before you get so old that the only adventure left is trying to zimmer yourself to the toilet before you shit yourself.


car roof

freezing puddles

How you check out “early” is perhaps more tricky. Maybe taking up hang-gliding or base jumping mid-eighties? The Migster plainly forgot to adopt a dangerous sport late on and is now paying the price. To be fair the sore ribs were greatly influencing her joie-de-vivre. She was the least convivial of the half dozen trips North we've made this year, although this due to her currently being at the bottom of the health sine wave of happiness.


After a chat over breakfast we headed out. We had swithered between Bennachie and Muir of Dinnet. We opted for the latter as we reckoned there'd be zero wildlife up the pointy hill compared to the luxuriant woods around Loch Kinord. Wrong! The weather was reasonable, there were definitely sunny spells but also quite a bit of cloud and occasional showers. I had hoped there would be lots of migratory birds as there is in East Lothian currently; at the scrapes and the mouth of the Esk. Red throated divers, goldeneyes, lots of geese and waders.





only moon shot this trip





Andy's apples were phenomenal this year
we took some home and they were (like himself) very sweet





the wildlife had been enjoying them too



As we drove to Muir of Dinnet we passed a roadside field entirely covered in hundreds of geese. Probably graylags or pink-footed. Mary said it was impossible to stop on the narrow road with no laybys so I hoped I'd maybe get a photo on the return journey, pointing the camera out the moving window.  


field of dreams geese


very Coull
there is some edge-of-cairngorms type scenery on the way to Muir of Dinnet


frosty leaf on picnic table at Muir of Dinnet

luckily we had anticipated the weather
and wrapped up warm 

Burn o Vat was running slightly more than last visit
but no torrent

it looked like the same story again today:
lichens and fungi only



a buzzard took off from the neighbouring field
and landed in a nearby tree


When we got out at the M of D car park we decided to do the Burn o' Vat first and then a loop of Loch Kinord. It became clear early on that there wasn't much about and we may be reduced to fungi and lichen again. The whiteboard in the visitor centre usually has a list of all the wildlife spotted on a daily basis. I think there was a mention of cormorants and a mushroom. Undeterred I set off expecting a loch full of waders, gulls, geese and divers. Alas none of them got the email and we didn't even see cormorants. There was one duck, maybe a goldeneye, seen flapping off in the wrong direction. Other than that, the water was empty of bird life. Nothing. Nada. Zilch. It did not improve my mood.

Again a distant buzzard. It is odd to think they used to be nearing extinction. I read on one of the social media birding groups how one of the more senior contributors remembers seeing his first buzzard in the Lothians area. That it was a rare sight back then (when I was growing up). Now they are the most common bird of prey you see throughout Scotland. Very handsome up close, if you ever get up close. Despite a powerful beak and claws they are big jessies and fly off at the sight of an approaching human.


another (or the same one) a couple of miles later

more lichen

The rest of the walk we had to settle for spectacular lichens and bracket fungus on dead birches. A medium sized group of chaffinches sat high in a tree like it was a funeral, and showed no interest in the small pile of sunflower seeds I left for them. There was a selection of vomit- and snot-looking fungi on a tree stump like an obscene smorgasbord. Just to cheer us up. Where were all the geese? (In that field back there on the drive here.) I was more determined than ever to get a passing photo on the road back but they had shuffled back from the road and were almost too far away to snap. Bugger! Oh well, back to base for hot soup and toast lunch.


an obscene smorgasbord of fungi


a funeral of chaffinches







won't be seeing any of this...

nice representation of Burn o' Vat

more coloured spit

nope

Bennachie in the background

I had fun trying to photo Craigievar Castle as it zipped by. Most of the twenty photos I took out the window placed a whizzing tree in front of the large pink castle. Until about the sixteenth when I got a shot or 2 of the building between passing trees.  



Craigievar Castle


painted sheep

those geese, further away this time


Bennachie



Andy's apples once the frost had thawed

That night we had another spectacular meal and a glass or 2 of red. I was a little concerned that I might be returning to Edinburgh slightly more rotund than I left. I have been trying to get in shape and lose a bit of flab before the inevitable swimming pool photos in Tenerife. I know it is currently very unfashionable to try to be slim for going on holiday – in fact many holiday-makers look as if they have been deliberately plumping up before disrobing on a foreign beach, however I felt it was a useful exercise and target.

If I go into Winter carrying extra timber I am doomed when I put on the usual hibernation insulation. So I have been going to the WORX gym (which I painted recently) fairly frequently and trying to do a hard run at least once a week, to get the heart rate up to max and burn a few calories. If my Suunto is to be believed, my max heart rate is something like 175. (It should be 157 since I am 63.) Given that the rough calculation of max bpm is 220 minus your age, working backwards I have the heart of a 45 year old! (But the figure of a chef.) So there is still a lot of work to be done. That said I am very much looking forward to doing some of it on the dirt track near our hotel in Tenerife, surrounded by butterflies, and in the hotel gym in a week's time. My body does seem to respond better to warm sunny weather. Fewer complaints. Which is a relief for everyone.




So it was time to say goodbye to the springbok, wildebeast and impala. We've grown quite fond of them, up on the wall there. Pack the car and drive South. The journey started out a bit grey but as we approached Dundee the clouds parted and it was almost perfect conditions for stretching legs and doing a spot of birdwatching. I had been seeing posts of Bearded Tits (which are nowadays called bearded reedlings) on the Tay reed beds, and knowing they are a rare species and that we passed within a couple of miles of a place where Gillian, Richard and Jimmy had all got decent photos, it was an obvious call.

You park at Errol just off the A90 and walk less than a mile down through the fields to the reed beds along the riverside. The weather was so good Mary could find no objection. On the way up the road there was a roadblock and we sat stationary for a full 30mins before proceeding towards Perth and Kinoull Hill. The weather was iffy and I felt we'd be arriving after dark if I insisted on a visit to the reed beds. However it was only about 2pm on teh way back down, and sundown was 2hrs away. I had made sure I knew exactly where to park and where to walk and look for the birds as I didn't want to put Mary to any greater trouble than necessary. She could happily go her whole life not seeing a bearded reedling so I felt maximum efficiency here was important. In and out with no faffing!






Errol - an attractive smallish village next to the Tay

reed beds

I had seen a map or 2 that ornithologists had posted so I knew you went down the path past the house and then there was a small clearing to the right where there should be a grit table. Not feeding but grit which the birds like to eat to help grind up their food. The weather was perfect, I guided Mary off the A90 seamlessly to a parking spot just yards from the dirt trail and we found the grit table exactly where it was supposed to be. Perfect! There was only one tiny problem.


no birds!

reed bunting - the other inhabitants of the reeds

We hung about for half an hour. While we could see and hear birds flying past and cheeping in the reeds, not one went near the grit table. I had heard people suggesting first thing in the morning might be best and I suspect between 2 and 3 in the afternoon is suboptimal. I would have stood another hour but Mary saved me the trouble. A photographer we bumped into said there were loads of birds earlier as he headed home. Curses! If it were an easier spot to get to I'd take a bus or train and bike but it is a long way from anywhere and tricky if not driving. Bearded reedlings* are cute but I'm not sure if they're worth the hassle. We may try again if passing as it is a pleasant enough walk. Anyway it kinda felt in line with the rest of the trip - not the most successful journey up North. We have had some spectacular trips there this year so I can't really complain when one fails to produce the goods. However it was worthwhile to catch up with Mary's family and we wanted to do a trip there before going off on holiday. 

*BTW these birds had their names changed because although they were thought to be similar to long-tailed tits, scientific classification revealed they are not tits (or related) but in fact the only species in their own family of Panuridae.

a long stare at a bare table

We got home before it got dark and appreciated not having to wear hats and socks in bed.
The end.











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