way out west

Bikepacking Mini-break Mid-week Weekender!

I blew it. I had been planning a trip West in search of dragonflies for some time and the last few weeks weren't all that sunny and I hung off till now. And really it was too late - I should have gone at the height of the heatwave, when Tanish Nature Reserve near Caroline (Mary's sister) and family would have been hoaching with odonata. However it was a fun trip and good to pop over to the West and a reminder that it is possible. And also to spend a couple of nights under canvas. And to catch up with Caroline, Will and their kids. Here's what happened...

I left Tuesday 7th Aug heading into a couple of days of mixed forecast. Maybe the clouds will make for more dramatic photos I told myself. There is several ways to get to the middle of nowhere (Tayvallich) and none of them fast and painless. Which is why it has been far too long since we last visited. Possibly best part of a decade, yikes. Option 1 was cycle 40+ miles south from Oban. Too long on the train (and biggest train fare at £60 return.) Option 2 was get off Oban train at Arrochar (£48) and cycle 58miles on wiggly roads with a hill early on at the rest and be thankful. So I opted for the cheapest and I hoped most scenic which was ferry hopping over Arran. So 2 trains to Ardrossan, ferry to Brodick, cycle to Lochranza, ferry to Claonaig, cycle to Tayvallich. About £42 travel expenses and 51 miles cycling total. I wasn't looking forward to the trains but on the second one I bumped into Craig - he was also bikepacking to Arran - and we talked so much about camping hillwalking and having fun outdoors that the hour journey passed in 5 mins. We met his pal at Ardrossan and put our bikes onto the ferry, and had something to eat in the canteen. I think restaurant is too high-end a term for their menu, although I enjoyed their Cal-Mac and chips. And it fueled the ride up the very steep hill from North Sannox towards Lochranza. How have I forgotten that?

Craig and pal - good company that helped the non-cycling bit whiz by.

Goatfell out the ferry window.

I spent a fair bit of my youth visiting Arran. I did several memorable trips there; bike camping with the brother and pals, and once kayaked across and climbed Goatfell in the same glorious day another time. I haven't been back recently apart from doing the Goatfell race a few times and with that, you are back on the ferry same day and never see much beyond Brodick and the crazy golf course. I had forgotten the quartz-like white roads round the coast and as I saw the Corrie Hotel and N Sannox camping spot (now pony trekking and picnic area, ha!) waves of indistinct nostalgia swept over me. Things came back that I couldn't be sure about. The large freestanding roadside boulder the Cat Stone (granite glacial erratic) near Corrie and the old wives' tale that if you could scale that you could scale anything on Arran. I have probably done the former but not the latter. I didn't stop this time to try, as I knew I had to get up the long climb before descending into Lochranza. 

I found this side of the climb much worse than the return journey, even though both sides start around sea-level and look similar in gradient on the readout. Mind you, I was carrying a litre of milk and a bottle of wine more on the way there, compared to the return. I had soaked my shirt by the time I summited and coasted downhill. 

I had heard a rumour that an old pal Sandy who grew up on Arran (and I shared a flat with in Aberdeen) was working in Lochanza distillery so, having 30mins to kill, popped in, to ask. That story was so old I can't even remember who told me such a thing. Anyway a guy who had worked there for 20 years had no recollection of Sandy, so I guess my info is wrong. 

While I waited on the ferry coming in I ate a sandwich (I had brought from home) and noticed, to my delight, that there were a couple of Scotch Argus flying around the grassy shoreline. I took a few pics, then it was time to get the second ferry across to Claonaig. I can't believe this is so cheap. £5.80 return! It takes about 30 mins to chug across and you are deposited in a very middle-of-nowhere kind of place with a steep climb to start the 34miles to Tayvallich. 

bike on car deck

climb out of Claonaig, with superb view of Arran's hills

I had a vague plan to cycle for a bit until I came across a place so beautiful it would inspire a wild camp overnight before finishing the journey next morning. Being all a bit last minute I hadn't heard back from Caroline, or indeed given her much warning I was coming over. They are not big on formal, and I was largely self sufficient. I had texted I was on the Claonaig ferry but hadn't heard back. At some point I got a message about visiting the inlaws down the road, but it was unclear whether that was for me to do, or them, currently doing. In fact they were out of town but I didn't get those 2 texts till 3 days later, on my way home. However it was adding up to a nicely casual and woolly experience. 

Meanwhile there was important work to be done! There were dozens of Scotch Argus ON TOP of the roadside thistles and ragwort. And when I could stand it no longer, I jumped off the bike and took photos. I get the feeling that different species react in different ways in different locations and conditions. This was so different from the ones in Melrose; maybe it was the weather? Anyway, for whatever reason they were making themselves available for photos and not hiding in the long grass. Scotch Argus were fast become one of the themes of the trip and they really cheered me up and took my mind off the cycle and where I might spend the night. The small road over (up and down!) to the main Campbeltown road was a blast, the next 15 miles not so much. So no roadside idylls. I just kept on cycling and was keen to get past the Lochgilphead junction, as there might be a sunset and if there was I wanted to be on the side facing West, drinking wine with my shoes off!

Tarbert

After Lochgilphead I seemed to be on autopilot and very soon was approaching Crinan (of canal fame). This I knew to be "just down the road" from Tayvallich and so in a prescient-like piece of luck I phoned Caroline. I got her voicemail and didn't leave a message. Little did I know that about half a mile onward marked the last point of EEs jurisdiction. (The only item I forgot to pack was my vodaphone burner, essential for west coast coms.) I would not get a phone signal again till I left on Friday and about this very point on the return journey I would get Caroline's message and 2 texts saying they were away from home till Wednesday night late on. 

Meanwhile there were only 8 or so miles left; might as well go the whole distance and put the tent up in Caroline's garden, even if she is not there. 

Tayvallich is an interesting place. To me it seems really remote, and yet remote from what? From the hoardes of marauding tourists at the Edinburgh Festival? They are not my people. From the drunks, the football fans and spouse-beaters of Leith? Similarly, not my clan. It is tempting to label the place a yacht-based Brigadoon but it has a practical shop and a school and a day-to-day life that makes it a community and not just a tartan trimmed boaters' holiday harbour. But it is set in a ridiculously picturesque part of the world. Will's folks who moved here from Edinburgh say the place is very welcoming and not one of these villages where you have to have had a couple of generations before you are considered a local.

Luckily Caroline had mentioned the Carsaig road in her text and so I actually managed to recall (with that help) where her house was. There were cars parked beside it but I didn't know if they were her's or the neighbour's, so I was unsure whether they were nearby or still on holiday. I quickly set up the tent and had a splendid meal on the go before 8.30. Actually the meal was indifferent but the wine I had carried to present to my landlords still managed to see the light of day and raised the tone of the welcome magnificently.

After eating (mainly drinking) I cycled down to Carsaig - a beach over the western side of things, which looks west to Jura and beyond and although there wasn't much of a sunset I was mellow as anything and stuck the camera on a tripod and videoed a couple of minutes of waves lapping on the shore because it was just bliss! Total antidote to the Edinburgh Festival and yet exactly the sort of thing you might find in an installation in an art gallery during the festival. 

I cycled back to my tent (still no sign of the householders) and bedded down for the night, too tired to listen to a talking book I had brought along. It's ages since I've camped and here's some things you forget.

1/ A flat place to pitch your tent is REALLY important. Even if it seems the slope is negligible, find somewhere ABSOLUTELY flat in preference. Just saying.
2/ You get a better mattress if you don't inflate it to the max.
3/ Don't leave your shoes in the front porch bit of the tent. If you have room inside and they are dryish bring them in. Because once you have put on a shoe with a slug inside and squelched all it's gooey stuff out onto your sock and shoe interior, you are done for. (Mainly psychological but also a bit physical.)

Also: I have been meaning to roadtest some freezedried packet meals I bought way back, anticipating a long Summer of camping and bivying, looking up at the stars and taking time-lapse films of them. So I packed them and here is the review. £5.50 per single serving from Tiso. Tear the top off, remove oxygen thingy packet, add 330?mls of boiling water up to line A, stir. Reseal packet top. Walk round garden, I mean camping spot, for 8 minutes while meal "cooks" swigging directly from bottle, like a boss, then stir again, and hey presto Beef and Potato Stew. Pros: light to carry, easy to prepare with minimum fuss and tear off top works every time. Quick. All excellent and top marks. The only problem is you have to eat this pile of do-do. Not school dinner crap, I like school dinners. I am not a fussy gourmand. After a long day in the fresh air I am a hungry horse and school dinners would be FAB. This tasted like bits of old watch strap in a thin gruel with small chips of mdf soaked in starch. Which is a real shame because I'm totes in favour of the whole astronaut food and packaging thing.

To be fair, I started with the worst one. By the second one I had either acclimatised or was just so hungry I made the most of it. I also found if you went twice round the garden swigging wine and left the stuff to cook for say 12 minutes, some of the bits of lego and dice then had improved mouth feel. (Maybe instructions said 18 minutes?) Second night was laughably Chicken Fried Rice. At least with cup-a-soup you know what you're getting and it costs pennies per hot mug of gloopy chicken flavoured yellow powder. This was a hot watery puddle of surprise objects that may have originally been animal, vegetable or mineral. I would challenge the makers to produce the appetising bowl of food they present next to the packets on their website, from their actual packets. At the end of the day I'd probably opt for cup-a-soup or pot noodle because you at least know where you stand and it will be less disappointing. And £4 less cash. But hey, I've not tried the macaroni cheese and that HAS to be good? I mean you can't f*ck up macaroni cheese? Back in my batchelor days I had been known to live on Pasta 'n' Sauce when I wasn't sober enough to cook. It wasn't great but it was three notches above Summit to Eat (going downhill from here on in.)

Caroline's house

(before the tinkers set up camp in the garden.)

Next morning and I started with 2 mugs of muesli and maybe a left-over sandwich. Then checked out the local shop to buy more wine (in case Caroline returned, obvs) and had to choose between cheap olives or expensives ones. I went with cheap. Mistake. Also bought 8 wholemeal rolls with bits of cracked barley stuff on top. Wow they were good. And some stuff to put on them - pate, cheese, tomatoes. I had everything I needed except a toilet, but there was one at the end of the village (take your own toilet roll) and happily there was an outside tap in the garden that saved faffing with bottled water. I had intended getting up at dawn and making the most of the day but it was overcast so after about 11 hrs in my sleeping bag, I rose, well rested, (slightly achy back) and headed off to Taynish.

Taynish is about a mile and a half out of Tayvallich and I had memories from long ago about how fabulous it was. Trails through the woods. Brim full of butterflies and dragonflies and that was before I even had a thing about flying insects. The sun was out and I felt well rested and had 2 camera batteries fully charged. Life was good! Before I even got there I had stopped to take pics of butterflies on a couple of Buddleia bushes - one purple the other white - and a common darter on a fern.

Next up were Speckled Woods. They looked just a bit different from our own over on the East Coast but without anything to compare, it was tricky to say how. 2nd brood SWs in East Lothian are darker brown with more contrasting yellow patches. These ones seemed more white than yellow and not as dark brown. But were similar as well. (I have heard since there is a Highland Specklie, though I haven't checked to see if these were those.)

I managed to navigate myself fairly quickly to the dragonfly epicentre which was a series of swampy ponds covered with waterlilies. A boardwalk allowed you to move out into the swamp keeping feet dry. However I had few qualms about stepping off the walkway and into the mud and splosh, wishing to wash out my right shoe and the slug-guts contents. In the short time the sun remained out there was a few damselflies and this Golden-ringed dragonfly, one of the larger species I hoped to see. It looked a bit thuggish and like it had been carved out of mountain bike tyre and then painted with Humbrol yellow paint. However it sat still for a couple of photos, green eyes and all.

Next up and this one is something of an enigma. I have seen a few Black darters of late and posted them here. The females apparently have yellow backs and aren't really that black. The juveniles however seem to start with more yellow and turn black, so I think this might be a juvenile. Can't see anything else on my dragonfly laminate. Anyone knows better, do let me know. Same with anything here as mostly I just google stuff and look at books for info, and real life often looks different.

I spent quite a time wading up and down here.

another specklie

There were several exhibitions around and about Taynish. Often they were just a thing, or a couple of things. At the dragonfly swamp there were 3 sculptures that I ignored. Like 3rd rate Matisse dancers they were crude renditions of 3 figure-like things in bendy stick and plaster wrap dancing in a circle painted light blue and stuck in the swamp. They didn't even get a photo they were that bad. But given the waterlilies and general beauty of the surroundings it was nearly literally gilding the lily to add superfluous junk and expect applause. Another, a stone head and shoulders with swim goggles was a bit better and I did take a photo of that. Although again for me the competing countryside was still the prettier sight. The piggery, I nearly didn't bother visiting. However there was a light rain falling and I had nothing better to do while waiting for the sun to come out again, so I went past it. There was some great underwater photos of flora and fauna you'd find under the sea by Ben James although I can't find any of them online so you'll have to take my word for it or visit yourself. They were the best things out of all the artwork there I saw. 

There were info boards saying there were otters locally. Now this is indeed exactly the sort of landscape the camera pans across while Attenborough whispers some anthropomorphic guff and then zooms in to show otters at play. However in the 30mins I cruised the coastline there was bugger all about apart from the scathing cries of seabirds. Even though I rattled several sports bar wrappers loudly to let the otters know about potential handouts.

Thank goodness for the Scotch Argus although they had now reverted

to form and were diving into the long grass more than settling atop flowers.

I did wonder about this house.

Who in their right mind comes to this remote spot (again remote from where) (other people I suppose) and says see that hill over there, even more remote from even this godforsaken outpost, let's build a house on it. I mean just miles from anywhere. Where do you shop? How did they get all the bricks and mortar there? Who lives there? It would have to be Paul McCartney to afford the Tesco deliveries. (Sometime later I found it is Zoe and her man. Zoe used to share a house with Caroline before she met Will.) Had Caroline and family not made an appearance that evening I determined I would visit that house if possible the following day, assuming it was connected to the land going down the (other) side of Loch Sween. Go and ask some pressing questions. (I bet their broadband is shit.) Anyway, Caroline did turn up. Which is a shame because I have met Zoe from way back and well that would have been a surprise.

exhibition of great photos in the piggery

light drizzle

I suppose it is the regular watering that keeps everything so lush and verdant

11 miles walked and run over 5 hours

On the way back to the car park at the North end of Taynish there is a hill you can climb and it gives a terrific view over the land and lets you see the whole peninsula. Also across to the twin peaks of Jura. Well worth the climb up narrow trails.

west to Jura

looking South

looking North

West

North

climbing back down steep sippery steps!

I headed back to the dragonfly swamp since the sun felt as if it was coming back out. It did a bit and I found a few more subjects to take pics of.

common darter (male)

common darter (female) possibly

I think these were Emerald damselflies even though their colours had faded.

Black darter

So this one was just asking to be photographed, but I had real trouble getting it in focus as it was swinging back and forth on a long stem of grass. I took an embarrassing amount of pics to get these three!

you can see the blue sculpture near the walkway

With the sun going in for the afternoon I went to explore a trail I had earlier run past. There were painted arrows suggesting more "art" up a single track. It was quite a long way in before revealing a clearing and painted poles, with wind chimes. I was in a good mood and surprised myself by quite enjoying this little gathering. It made me smile although the windchimes were far too heavy to work unless there was a gale blowing. And I hoped the painted sticks were eventually collected and not just left to get old and pollute the surroundings. And let's face it the surroundings were generally more pleasing than the additions. There were also some Rae Mears type shelters near the painted poles which Donald (C&W's oldest) had helped build. Nice to hear they were doing wood craft or whatever with the school. Kids should spend more time in the woods having fun than on screens.

I returned rather dirty and wet footed to "home". The sun was still shining between times and I took photos of the flowers in my campsite. Didn't see the bug in the red flower till much later. Feeling a bit in need of a wash I filled a large watering can from the lovely cold tap. There was a spot in the garden behind the bamboo where the neighbours can't see. I stripped off and danced around naked trying to suppress yelps and whoops while pouring cold water over myself and washing off the worst of the mud and sweat. I was hoping the residents would not choose this moment to return home to find me doing a naked raindance in their garden like I had gone native. (I forgot to video it as well.)

After round 2 of cooking up freeze dried hell and rubber bands, I swigged some wine and went over to Carsaig to see what was on the widescreen sunset telly. It was a pretty good show and several people were already hogging the best seats. I went for a clamber round the slabby rocks which proved an interesting challenge as the rock starts quite user friendly then deteriorates into sharp pointy fins you have to be very careful with. A slip and you'd crack your shins, break your camera and maybe go in the water. 

Then I saw this chap. Initially I thought he was a lure to get me chasing him over the rocks and falling in the water. Then I saw another, then another. I realised they were Graylings and catching the last rays of the sun - actually angling their wings like solar panels to get warmth from the sun while settling down to roost. Only I was disturbing them. Unusually their great camouflage underwings didn't match the background rock colour so they were easier to follow and subsequently distinguish in photos.

The sky did a number of interesting things over the course of an hour or 2. I tried to find the time lapse settings but although I had seen them recently (at Anna's class while scrolling through stuff I've never looked for before!) I just couldn't find the setting for timelapse, so you'll have to make do with a couple of pics.

Then off to sleeping bag heaven where I heard voices a couple of hours later asking why there was a tent in the garden. A brief exchange but I explained I was asleep and would see them in the morning.

I dreamed of Peter Marsden, whom I have not seen since primary school - he and I were both after the same place on the (national?) bike team (in my dream) him more experienced racing, but myself fit from life. I had not seen him in 44 years but my brain cleverly aged him to about now - well maybe we were in our thirties, who knows. Anyway a very pleasant start to the day, and unexpected after 44 years to see the face of someone you hadn't thought you'd any recollection of. Unresolved outcome - not sure who made the team - but fun and upbeat, and none of that anxiety that can creep up on you asleep.

Next morning and Caroline sorted out some holiday unpacking then took me swimming. I hadn't packed a wetsuit having no room but had taken swim shorts and rash top - long sleeved. It was perfect as the water was reasonably warm. Not like Med warm. But swim at a decent pace and stay warm enough kind of thing. Caroline has been doing open water swims and like Mary enjoys the way it swipes all the rubbish off your mental desk. She took me to her 2 favourite spots. The first one below was in Loch sween so salt water. The 2nd one, a mile away so we changed, then changed back into wet gear (brrrr!). Both very nice places. It looks a bit overcast and murky but only because the sun was hiding behind clouds and both spots were super picturesque and had the wind not been blowing quite briskly, probably warm and sheltered! What can I say, it was great, but w/p camera doesn't show it well.

Caroline's swimming is generally done for the immersion and with her head above the water and not in sports kit. Nae goggles! So quite different from Monday eves with Carnethies, where we point at something distant, jump in the water and don't talk much till we get there. Caroline and I chatted and swam. It was hellish civilised!

Caroline makes oil paintings for a living so there is always lots to discuss. She has been doing small ones outdoors recently which is just really tricky, but the results are great. Unfortunately she has an exhibition coming up so all her best current work was off being framed. I should have taken more pics of other stuff in her studio but I didn't. There is some older stuff on her website here but her recent stuff is, I thought, more successful. It sells well too.

 2nd venue - Taynish Loch

2 swims, both about a fifth of a mile
if the suunto can be trusted

a Hunter

It was tempting to stay longer and continue the hunt for wildlife. However the weather was set to crash about the weekend and I felt I should channel my energies into a cycle back in decent weather on Friday. There is that place on the team after all. And I could see the amount of wine being consumed increase dramatically if I wasn't careful. I should get home on the Friday and return soon with Mary.  She doesn't get as much time off as I do. (Does anyone?!) In order to catch the right ferries I left at just after 8am aiming for the 11.20 ferry. 3hrs to do 35miles but with quite a load on the bike. I had taken 3.15 on the way up the road but the bike was heavier and I did stop for many photos.

I stopped within no time as this was looking lovely.

As was this at Crinan.

Just before Tarbert I stopped to take this poor soul off the road
before he was mashed into the tarmac. Still warm.

Tarbert was looking splendid in the sun about 10am
but you have to watch out for bumping into people...

what's he doing here
was what we were both thinking

and the other

All the way over the last few miles to the ferry I was thinking about the 2 wholemeal rolls I had in my backpack that I was going to eat on the ferry - spread with pate and cheese and wee tomatoes. Man I was hungry climbing that hill but the thought of those bits of barley or whatever it is that falls off the top of the roll and the way you can bite through them and get them stuck in your teeth. That was mostly what I was thinking about while cycling. And when I got settled on the ferry... they were just as good as I had anticipated. I think I was still sucking out bits from between my teeth at the top of the hill out of Lochranza! Yes sir!

So lots of rather ordinary lochside road down Loch Gilp? Then things get a bit more scenic about Kennacraig and you take a left over the hill to Claonaig. I stopped to take a photo from the top of the hill (soaked shirt again) (photo above) and you could just see the small ferry coming into dock. Hang on, that's MY ferry. Pedal like HELL! 

I made it with 10 mins to spare.

Lochranza looking fab.

up the big hill - felt easier this time (no milk or wine)
Marsden doesn't stand a chance!

down the other side

viking emerging from the sea

back to Brodick and Goatfell

ferry approching harbour
another theme this trip

I nearly forgot the traditional photo of the Forth Bridge at the crazy golf in Brodick. Usually it is before or just after the Goatfell Hill Race and I can't remember why, although I do know the daughter of the guy who built the model bridge. They seem to have repositioned it since last I was there and given the course a bit of an overhaul. I only just had time for a quick stop by the co-op to buy a sandwich and drink for the ferry because although the macaroni and chips was good it cost (with a small fizzy water) over a tenner. Which is kind of taking the piss. And I was feeling tired after all that fresh air. I could tell this because I fell asleep in a comfy chair while listening to music on my mp3 because the sound of other people's children was intolerable.

Great trip. Big thanks to Will and Caroline and Donald and Sorley for being absentee landlords then arriving back to show me a good time. It was fab. Must go back soon. Got home about 6pm - so 10hrs from one side of the country to the other.