time for tentsmuir

 

14-06-23

Timing was everything for this much anticipated trip and I really wanted to get it right. Small pearl-bordered fritillaries - a beautiful orange butterfly (above) - are available in the Lothians but the nearest site at Red Moss in the Pentlands is sub-optimal: long grasses and swampy, tussocky ground make it a difficult day out and obfuscate the butterflies. The result has been frustration, muddy, tired legs, cleg bites and rubbish photos.

Then one year I was running from Leuchars into Tentsmuir and I found SPBFs in the swamps and fields where boardwalks travel along the Fife Coastal Path. You can keep feet mud- and swamp-free and the butterflies sit on top of flowers for better photos. (Not hunker down in long grass.) Perfect! I just had to get the timing right. I waited an extra couple of days to get the best weather window (untroubled by work days, since largely retiring) and hoped to have some cross-over with common blues emerging right about the same time. It would probably be too early for dark green fritillaries but if I waited for them to appear the SPBFs might be fading. We've had some large downpours and poor weather which can really age butterflies quickly. I was mainly after perfect specimens recently emerged. I could return for DGFs at a later date.

Sitting on the train as it approached the Forth crossings, we were suddenly surrounded by a misty haar. It was an odd mix of sunny day and thick coastal fog with just the tops of the other 2 bridges visible through the low lying pea-souper. I hurried to get my camera out for the unexpected treat which was difficult to capture as the auto-focus was drawn to the dirt splattered train windows rather than the tracing-paper scenery outside.

I reckoned the coast would be clear long before I arrived at Tentsmuir 

and that proved to be the case.

North Queensferry

Leuchars, best old building

I got off the train to blue skies and temperatures that would make it a long day out. Several precautions I take these days for such trips: sun screen, particularly top of the head, ears and neck. Benadryl Allergy one-a-day hay fever tablets. Stops sneeze-barking, running nose, itchy eyes when kicking through dusty grass half the day looking for butterflies. More recently I have switched to Tesco own brand version Cetrizine Hydrochloride £2.90 rather than £10+ which I hope work as well. Alpkit mini gaiters: had to replace the under-shoe cords but worth the hassle as it keeps a LOT of thistly, grass-seed, and jaggy bristles out the neck of your trail shoes. Many more comfortable miles between shoe-off shake-outs! And an icy water reservoir. I was filling my reservoir drink system with ice cubes but they melt in an hour. On really hot days I leave the third full reservoir in the freezer overnight but raise either end so the water is only in the middle. In the morning I can relatively easily open the top and pour in fluids and attach the hose. I like a little fruit squash but keep it mostly water as too strong a mix makes you more thirsty. And maybe half an electrolite tab. I carry about 1.5 litres which won't last a whole HOT day.

green tiger beetle

I have had amazing days in Tentsmuir and it is a favourite place for runs and wildlife. Leuchars is a good starting point - a mile or 2 through the military town and you are out into the countryside enjoying the dirt trails and blue skies. Follow the Fife Coastal Path signs which are not always very obvious. After 2.7 miles you come to series of boardwalks across swampy ground. (SPBFs prefer moisture.)

skylark

wonky skylark on wonky post

From previous trips I had anticipated coming across the butterflies around boardwalk 7 (they are numbered 1 ~ 7). However around number 3 a couple floated across my path. I wasn't yet into the main swamp. I realised I had got the timing spot on. There were dozens of fritillaries wafting back and forth around the boardwalk. I didn't even need to leave the wooden slatted path. I had packed a cheap pair of decathlon beach sandals - Mary bought us a pair each for wearing while sea swimming. Really just a firm sole with mesh upper for protecting your feet from sharp shells and rocks while swimming. I had brought them along in case of bog-snorkling. Last year doing similar I had followed SPBFs into the marshy bits and ended up running the next 20 miles with soggy, stinking, muddy feet, not the best idea. So the super-light mud slippers in poly bag remained in the back pack. There were more than enough butterflies nectaring on yellow flowers on dry land without venturing into the swamps. Result! And very pleased.

small pearl-bordered fritillary

Aren't these butterflies almost identical to the ones you went to Pitlochry to chase? I hear you ask! (Pearl-bordered fritillaries. Link here.) Well yes, very VERY similar. In fact so similar even experts won't be able to easily distinguish one for the other without close scrutiny and preferably an underwing photo. Almost impossible in the field. They have different flight seasons (although they overlap) and different terrain preferences. So if you know when and where you are looking at them (and not just looking at a photo in December) then you should probably know which is which. But they are annoyingly similar. Or equally beautiful. Although the other sort, PBFs are more rare (found in fewer venues) so have what I would consider a higher tariff on account of that. In large part they look the same. And they look pretty amazing.  

The underwing differs between the 2 species but again not dramatically - a slightly different weight and colour of lines and patches of colour. Both look reminiscent of stained glass windows. I spent a very happy hour moving from flower to flower but rarely going more than a few yards before I latched on to the next specimen. And there was no shortage of specimens.

A good guide to condition and age is to look at the fringe that runs round the extreme wing edge. In a fresh specimen it will be a nearly solid, even band of cream white with black marks. In an older butterfly it becomes worn frayed and tatty or rubs right down to the wing edge. If I noticed a notch or tear in the wing or imperfection I'd move onto the next specimen. (There were maybe hundreds to choose from!) I realise this could be interpreted as shallow behaviour and very judgey, but the pursuit of perfection is a cut-throat business. Even in the gentle world of butterflies!

It was with reluctance I tore myself away from this abundance of orange and black beauties. Did I have enough decent shots - did I get decent photos of their underwings? I hoped so and would be passing by on the return journey to the station. Maybe I'd have another session then? As backup.

Another half a mile on and I came across a common blue. I was very pleased as I'd only seen one or 2 this year so far and knew it could be too early having come 60miles further North. It looked very recently emerged and only took a few minutes to chase about for a couple of decent photos.

common blue

There is then a longish stretch through woods and then on the road, eventually leading to Kinshaldy car park at around 6miles and 2hrs (1 of which was chasing SPBFs). I was pleased the Salt and Pine 'Creperie' was open as I could buy some overpriced water. £1.80 for small can of fizzy or still water. I bought one on the way out and two on the return as it saves me having to carry so much in my backpack. It was cold.

no shit Sherlock

There is then a really pretty section - you can either go through the trees on sandy trails or follow the coastline North. I tend to skirt the woods in the dunes. There is more going on than over by the rather barren beach which is inevitably windy. There are a million yellow flowers (dandelion-like but maybe coltsfoot or mouse-ear-hawkweed or something similar.) It is very impressive and later in the season will be alive with common blue, graylings, cinnabars, DGFs and meadow browns. 

more water than usual

I was surprised to see the largest amount of water between the dunes I have come across in 5 or more years of visits. We had had recent rains but I was still impressed. Often there are largish puddles although sometimes just a string of slight dampness. This occasion they were all still joined up in one mini-lake. Strangely I couldn't see any odonata. Last year I was photographing 4-spotters and damsels on the smaller ponds. I have found common hawkers later on.

lots of marsh orchids

Many brown speckled birds as well, though whether they were skylarks, meadow pipits or other similar I couldn't tell nor was particularly bothered. I know skylarks if they are singing. The rest, much of a muchness and good luck to them!

A fine welcome from Mr Stonechat.

Stonechats on the other hand are a top quality bird. They come in attractive dimorphic pairs and best thing: they sit atop sticks and branches where you can point a camera at them. I don't even mind them telling me off for tramping through their turf. It sounds like a lovely welcome hello but probably translates as fuck off!

lonesome green hide

I came across a pair of stonechats with a family near the top of the meadow you go through before the Pavilion. Just near that marvelous green hide in the dunes, nowhere near the water. It is a fantastic building in a great colour of rusty green and should be in more films. 

There was quite a bit of bird cheeping very nearby and I followed it but the bird responsible was entirely invisible which was a puzzle. Eventually it materialised in a tree and showed itself to be a pied wagtail. How had it been sneaking through the bushes unseen? It was quite hot by now and I wasn't entirely trusting my input. But also really enjoying the hazy mindwarps a hot day can produce. Just going with the warm and dreamy vibe. After taking a photo of the wagtail I got back on the trail of the stonechats. They were quite noisy and also getting closer, and letting me get closer to them. They had the huge advantage of flight and could sit nearby knowing I was a slow plodder and unable to follow them easily from tree to tree. 

not sure what's going on here

Mrs. Sonechat

the kids

I was delighted to get close enough to get this shot of 2 juvenile stonechats. I assume that is what these are - they were near the parents, but weren't (yet again) wearing name badges. They have a similar look to young robins, a family relative. They were already flying confidently and I was actually quite a distance away with the camera on full zoom, so I wasn't unduly disturbing them. They happily hopped around several trees easily outwitting me and keeping a good distance away but it was a pleasure to get some photos before moving on.

linnet (probably)

heat haze

From this coastal section I then go past the Pavilion and Ice House before heading across the woods to Morton Lochs. The last few years doing similar I have arranged to meet my pal from back in secondary school, Keith, at Morton Lochs. He is a keen wildlifer and photographer and lives nearby. I would text him on the train and let him know I'd be at Morton Lochs at 2pm and then I'd get distracted and end up running late and having to sprint and arriving there in a sweating pile at 2.30pm. Last year I anticipated this and put the time back to 3pm. This year I wasn't sure I wanted to commit to Morton Lochs. It means a long day of 20plus miles and doesn't allow for changing plans. Also I swapped my mobile phone out for swamp flip-flops. About the same weight!

And it allowed me a more fluid gameplan in the heat, and less chance of being found dusty and dying at the trailside saying "tell Keith I'll be late".

the Pavilion
still a fabulous building, still needs another coat of varnish!

Next to the Pavilion was a load of Viper's Bugloss. And dozens of Silver Y moths. Not my favourite moths as they promise much and deliver... well, not so much. And they shiver a lot making blurry photos. But they were out in force, attracted to the blue flowers. Also attracted was a humming-bird hawk-moth, which I didn't see, but it was video-ed and put on social media within a few days of my trip there. Which is cool!

Another few sweaty miles later (always a bit of a slog before lunchtime) and eventually I got to the Morton Lochs car park. I had seen lots of great photos (on Friends of Morton Lochs fb page) of jays, woodpeckers and red squirrels taken at the hide which is in recovery and getting back to business as usual after the storms that brought down loads of the trees here.

Unfortunately the hides were occupied. A couple of birdwatchers and a long lens fat bloke. I took a seat next to the big guy and realised I wouldn't be eating my sandwiches. It wasn't a very relaxed atmosphere. The couple left shortly after and I shoogled up the benches to give the other guy room to breathe. I was busy trying to be as silent as possible. I do not frequent hides much and am never sure what the etiquette is. Pretty sure no farting or techno music. I noticed 2 things over the following 10 excrutiating minutes of silence. There was no food on the stumps of trees to attract birds and squirrels and there were no birds or squirrels being attracted to the tree stumps. I was busy trying to work up the courage to ask fat guy, who obviously knew all about calorific ingestion, if I should put some seeds and bread out there and see what happens. But I was also aware that that might attract the mallards who have found this to be a regular source of snacks and swan in (pun attempted) and ruin it for everyone. Sitting up for photos and saying I'm ready for my session babes, this is my best side. Pretty much in a daffy duck accent. Maybe if I waited, the other cellmate would up and leave and I could eat my sandwiches, put out some bread and nuts and have a party?

hungry chaffinch

I left shortly after a shandwick chaffinch appeared and found a seed secreted down the gnarly side of one of the tree trunks. Big guy lifted his cannon (pun fully realised) and shot off a dozen loud shots. Okay I'm out of here. Maybe he'll be gone by the time I've visited the DDD - the dragonfly drainage ditch, quarter of a mile down the trail. Also I really need to eat something before I faint. It was about 2.30pm and I'd eaten breakfast at the crack of 7.30am. And nothing since except 11miles of trail dirt. I was ready to sneak handfuls of sunflower hearts into my mouth if I had to wait any longer in the hide.(Against the street code: never eat your own stash!)

Love a good drainage ditch! I felt free of the oppression and claustrophobia of the hide. Nothing much bar the four-spotters and damselflies but all very pleasant. Or maybe that was the sandwich? Which was top notch. I like to grate a carrot into a cheese sandwich to give it a crunchy yet moist mouth feel. Sometimes (but not on this occasion) I also add a couple of oatcakes (or a KARG crispbread) to give additional crunch. Like a middle-class crisp sandwich*.  It also fills you up and all that fibre is reward in itself and later down the line. The backpack reservoir was still refreshingly cool although without taking it out and fondling it, you never really know how many sooks remain before you're into horse-with-no-name territory.

*Crisps are junk food, overpriced and unhealthy, try a couple of Pattersons (no palm oil and crisper texture) oatcakes between your bread next time you are hankering for a crisp sandwich. If you miss the crisps strong flavour then dust your sandwich with the contents of a hoover bag and some additional tumeric and pepper. Crisps are vile.

I'll return to the Kargs thing shortly. They will be in your supermarket (modest and unnoticed) next to the oatcakes and crispbreads. They are like ryvita but next level. Okay I'll cover them now. They have become something of an obsession for me. I got a pack, I'm not sure why. About 8 crispbreads each the size of a large (but thinner) mobile phone in a see-through (recyclable) polypropylene. About £2.50. Neither cheap nor particularly calorie light. But definitely with more personality than a rice cake. I have never really got past the (I think Australian) skit where a very blokish bloke is offered a rice cake by his health conscious wife, and he takes one and puts it under his pint like a coaster. 

yellow shell

damsels

My first bite into a Karg was a surprise. They have the texture of 4mm toughened glass. Imagine a ryvita coated with a thin layer of very brittle fibreglass resin. Makes you want to count your teeth afterwards. Do not use this product if you have old, wobbly, rickety or sensitive teeth. On the upside the very subtle cheese flavour combined with the texture absent of any moisture is oddly reminiscent of a slice of pizza left behind the couch for 2 weeks to air dry. I like old pizza and if you could make the ultimate dried out, compressed old pizza it might taste like these. I have just found the website and realised the product is called Dr Kargs and although you'll only have seen the Emmental Cheese and Pumpkin Seed variety there are actually 7 different types. Tesco and Sainsbury carry them (just the one variety mentioned above). Dr Karg and his crispbreads are from Austria. I have tried to replace snacks with fruit and oatcakes and if things are bad, ricecakes. But these Dr Kargs have strangely become my go-to favourites. They seem to be healthy as long as they don't make your mouth bleed or crack your teeth. They have no strong flavour but are curiously addictive. Once you have recovered from the loud crack and crunch of the first one, the gunshot echo reverberating round your skull makes you want a second one. Or it does for me. I wouldn't be surprised by any aggressively toxic reviews. I mean they are crispbreads. Like bird-watching and hill-walking mostly the preserve of the over 50s.

spider

four-spotted chaser

Keith had shown me a good wee spot off the main path for finding emerald damselflies (not out yet) and I was having a search round there when I came across this blackbird. It seemed to be struggling in the heat and didn't have the sense to hide away in the cooler shadows. I took some pics and then backed off as it wasn't looking in great shape and I didn't want to add to its troubles.

video of overheating blackbird

I went past the hide to see if Mr Blobby was still there, alas yes, so I just kept going. One of the highlights of the day albeit not very sensational, was this meadow brown which I came across through the tunnel and up the avenue of ox-eye daisies. I didn't bother with the other hide at the far end, just had a look for butterflies on the flowers. This was the first meadow brown of the year and I followed it for a while till it got used to my presence and then started feeding on the tops of the flowers. They often go into long grass hiding mode when approached so I was pleased to get this fine (if unspectacular) specimen to pose on the flower tops.

On the way back across the trails to the coast this large RA swooped out the trees and landed on the ground with wings open as to say "ta-daah, I've arrived" so I obliged and took a photo before it flew off. I was keeping an eye on the time as I was aiming for a specific train around 5.30 and did not want to miss it and have to hang around for the next one. I reckoned I'd get to the SPBFs around 4.30 and have 30mins and leave there with 30minutes to do the 2.7 miles to the station.

another common blue

Mr. Stonechat again

I had hoped to see the red squirrels who regularly appear there at Morton Lochs. However I didn't want to disturb those in the hides or blow in all bossy and controlling. Sadly the only red I saw was this dead one on the road out of Kinshaldy. A pox on the driver who ran it over although I know squirrels aren't always the best at crossing roads. Not as bad as weasels though.

By the time I went past the boardwalks again it was after 5pm and although there were still many SPBFs flying I couldn't take the time to have another session so only took a couple of photos then concentrated on running the last couple of miles to the train. I was still in not bad shape considering I'd done 23 miles by the station and managed to cover the last 2 miles at a decent pace. It was a great day out although hopefully I'll have more luck at the bird hide next time. And maybe a less busy train home. It was packed and running a bit late. I felt sorry for the folks I was crammed in beside as I was a bit fragrant from the best part of 7hrs running. Great place though and I'll be back soon for the DGFs, dragonflies and squirrels.

Last year on the 12th of June (2 days earlier last year) I did pretty much the same run. The train home was also really busy. Nobody wore masks because covid was largely being forgotten about. The following Friday I tested positive for covid. 

11miles+ out and back 23 total
plus 2 up and back from the station
had to have a rest day next day!